Arts & Culture in Ptown

“What a fantastically beautiful place.”

These were the words spoken by Romanos Rizk, a young artist, when he first arrived at the center of Provincetown in 1949. Surrounded by the smell of the sea, the generous smiles of native Portuguese fisherman, and a bohemian culture that fostered art and creativity, Rizk had followed stories of a bustling art colony on the outer Cape. He discovered the magic of Provincetown, studied under the tutelage of famed artist Henry Hensche, fell in love – with the town and with his future wife – and he never left.

Provincetown is famous for a lot of things: gay-friendly tourism, colorful characters, and a picturesque main street that runs along the coastal waters of the beautiful Atlantic Ocean. But few realize that to visit Provincetown is to visit what is largely considered America’s first true artist colony. Ever since famed painter Charles Webster Hawthorne established the Cape Cod School of Art in 1899, Provincetown has flourished as a haven for artists in every medium: painting, sculpting, theatre, writing, music, and more.

It was that reputation that brought hundreds of young artists to Provincetown, tantalized by nearly mythical tales of an artists’ haven perched at land’s end.

“You would go out to the dunes at night, bring a blanket, and sleep under the stars,” recalls Rizk. “It was a different world.”

Now 80 years old and still living in the same Provincetown home he bought decades ago, Rizk recalls his early years as a “struggling artist” with a fond, whistful nostalgia. He remembers renting a small basement apartment with four other young artists, a cramped unit equipped with a makeshift shower; but remembers most the joy of sharing beachside property for just $7 in weekly rent. He remembers the financial hardships of his peers, students laboring for the love of art; but he also remembers taking an empty pail down to the dock, where the generous Portuguese fishermen would fill it overflowing with fresh fish to eat. And he remembers doing construction, painting houses, and other odd jobs around town to make ends meet before he could support himself on art alone; but he also remembers heading to the beach at Race Point with fellow students, dredging up driftwood for a glowing bonfire, and filling the night air with singing, guitar playing, and young laughter.

“The town had a very European feel. Tourists would come into town and say, ‘I can’t believe this is the United States!’” laughs Rizk. “They would ask, ‘where is the art colony?’ We would say, ‘there is no art colony. There’s just art, everywhere.’”

Today, art is still a vibrant, living and breathing part of the Provincetown landscape. Many of the finest works produced throughout its long history are collected in the Provincetown Art Association and Museum (6460 Commercial Street; paam.org). Besides works by Hawthorne (including the well-known piece “His First Voyage”), the museum holds the recognizable, white-line woodblock prints invented by B.J.O. Nordfeldt. Known as the “Provincetown Print,” it is one of many artistic techniques crafted in P-Town.

While the Museum certainly pays tribute to the storied past, Provincetown’s progressive attitude dictates a glimpse of the future, as well; contemporary artists are also celebrated, and the Museum provides interactivity – ranging from workshops to special events like film screenings and live music – to continually engage viewers.

If you’re prepared to take that engagement to the next level, stop by the Fine Arts Work Center (24 Pearl Street; fawc.org) during your stay. Established in 1968, the Center offers burgeoning artists the opportunity to live, work, and learn in an environment that truly fosters creativity; Hawthorne himself once worked in a space now occupied by the Center’s studios. The residency and education provided by Center Fellowships ensure that Provincetown will retain its unique place in America’s art world, and that future visitors will continue to enjoy the work of its magnificent talents. But don’t worry, you don’t have to apply for a Fellowship to enjoy the perks of this Provincetown institution: simply scope the events calendar for free public presentations, programs and readings by renowned artists and writers.

The Provincetown passion for the arts has even rubbed off on other outer cape towns; neighboring Truro is home to Truro Center for the Arts. Like the Fine Arts Work Center, the Truro Center for the Arts at Castle Hill (10 Meetinghouse Rd., N. Truro; castlehill.org) hosts a wide variety of paid workshops and free programs. It also expands its repertoire to encompass more of the performing arts, ranging from dance to yoga.

Of course, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. And in Provincetown, there are plenty of places to form your own opinion on the nature of art. Dozens of privately-owned galleries line the streets of Ptown, and each one merits a visit: Friday night gallery strolls are hugely popular, especially during the warm weather. It’s the gallery version of an “open house,” with most individual artist studios opening their doors, letting the red wine flow like scarlet paint, and encouraging passerby to stop in and see the work: no pressure, no pretense. Choose one end of Commercial Street and work your way down (but be sure to peek down the side streets, too!). Stopping in for a glimpse of art and an enlightening conversation is a fabulous way to meet local artisans and fellow visitors. Strolls are always a highlight of the Provincetown experience, so peruse a comprehensive list of spectacular galleries with the Provincetown Gallery Guide (www.provincetowngalleryguide.com).

Lucky for you, we’ve taken the liberty of highlighting a few in particular. But eyes (and your mind) open. Here in Provincetown, that’s half the fun.

GALLERIES:

The Baltivik Gallery & Sculpture Garden (432 Commercial St.; cbgallery.net) - Vibrantly colored paintings and ornate, textured steel sculptures are the order of the day at this fabulous gallery. Many of the paintings recall local scenery, but the varied presentations by the gallery’s artists give each a completely unique sense of style.

Bowersock Gallery(373 Commercial Street;  bowersockgallery.com) - An eclectic mix of paintings, glassware, jewelry and sculpture, Bowersock Gallery is a warm, low-pressure (high art) gallery featuring local New England talent. Styles run the gamut, though there’s a particular focus on colorful contemporary pieces. Sculptures are a strong point here.

Fowler Gallery – Online (fowlergallery.com) - After 9 years in Provincetown, artist F. Ronald Fowler moved his studio to nearby Eastham, MA. But he remains so dedicated to P-Town’s art history, he encourages visitors to contact him to view his work in its new location.

Hilda Neily Gallery (398 Commercial St; hildaneilygallery.com) - Specializing in seascape and still-life paintings. Neily has lived in Provincetown since 1968, and also offers workshops for blossoming painters.

Iona Print Studio (379A Commercial St; ionaprint.com) - Iona allows visitors to turn their snapshot memories into gorgeous giclees worthy of wall hanging. Using state of the art processing techniques, Iona can transform ordinary shots from your digital camera into timeless representations of your Provincetown vacation.

Julie Heller Gallery (2 Gosnold Street; juliehellergallery.com) - Provincetown artists old and new are equally represented in this gallery. Located away from the hubbub of Commercial Street, a visit here is particularly recommended for those who plan to spend quality time examining the work; not just soak up a few minutes of culture before Tea Dance!

Kennedy Studios of Provincetown (353 Commercial Street; kennedystudiosptown.com) - For art collectors on a budget, buying original pieces can be an expensive prospect. Kennedy Studios of Provincetown strikes a balance between offering originals, prints, photographs and giclees. If the options weren’t great enough, the website offers online shopping for instant gratification. Who doesn’t love that?

Larry Collins Fine Art (145 Commercial St. #2; larrycollinsfineart.com) - Vintage photography is the specialty here, though antiques and sculptures also deserve your rapt attention. Don’t be fooled: there’s nothing old-fashioned about timeless talent.

Lyman-Eyer Gallery (432 Commercial Street; lymaneyerart.com) – Representing over 40 artists in modern and contemporary work, Lyman-Eyer Gallery is representative of “the now” in Provincetown’s bohemian art scene. Nudes (male and female) are a big hit here.

Song of Myself Photography(349 Commercial Street; songofmyself.com) -The studio of photographer Brad Fowler is more than a place to book an appointment for your own custom photo session (ready for your close-up, Mr. Demille?). It’s also a gallery in itself, an enclave of gorgeous black & white photographic portraits: individuals, families and loving couples, frozen in time. Each piece captures the spirit of its subject, making a visit here a lesson in art, in character study, and in real inner beauty.

Tom Johnson Photo Gallery (237 Commercial Street; tomjohnsonphoto.com) - If you’re less than confident that your own personal photos will do justice to Provincetown’s charm and beauty, take home a guaranteed keepsake from your experience. A local resident since 1999, Johnson’s work captures the quintessential New England spirit of the Provincetown landscape.

Lovinger Gallery (427 Commercial Street; lovingerimages.com) – Jeff  Lovinger is passionate about photography and it shows in his work.  He constantly pushes the creative edge which has paid off in a continuous flow or award winning images.  Images can be purchased on thick, archival photo art paper or canvas.